Day 3 – Saturday
Our second full day in Lisbon dawned overcast and chilly – but we had to conquer São Jorge Castle anyway! After building all morning the clouds finally broke around midday, so we didn’t spend as long exploring the castle as we’d have liked, but it was clearly time for a pastel de nata and a cup of tea (on that note, why is a decent cuppa impossible to find in Europe? #travelproblems).
One thing you can find everywhere is the burger, of course. As we were about to leave A Cultura do Hamburguer post-lunch, the heavens really opened. Luckily, despite the fact it was closing, the lovely staff let us shelter with a beer until the rain died down and we could get back to exploring Bairro Alto.
It actually (accidentally) ended up being a bit of a boozy day: we also indulged in street stall mulled wine, cherry brandy (ginja) from A Ginjinha, more beer at A Brasileira and finally yet more cocktails at Trincas in the Mercado da Ribeira, where we also had peri peri chicken for dinner. We did break up the alcohol with two separate ice cream stops at Gelato Davvero as well ;) (and finally got round to buying sardines, in the traditional colourful tins).
Sunday in Sintra
As is our way, it was day trip time! We visited nearby Sintra.
In the evening, once back in Lisbon, we ended up at the market (yes again) but not before popping into A Ginjinha (yes, again!) then Ginginha do Carmo for more ginja – this time in a chocolate cup! Are you coming to see that we enjoyed Lisbon’s food and drink offerings? :)
Day 4 | Monday
With a 4pm flight back to London, we had limited time to explore on our last day so we dedicated the morning to ticking-off the last of Alfama’s windy streets before lunch at Café do Rio (AKA Hamburgeria Gourmet). We didn’t realise it’s a bun-less joint – and we’re carb lovers – but hey, it’s another food ‘experience’ down and they were damn good. Lunch done, we just had enough time to climb the Rua Augusta Arch before catching the metro back to the airport.
In a nutshell
What to see
- Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta, R. Augusta 2
- Castelo de Sao Jorge, Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo
- LX Factory, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103
- Torre de Belém, Av. Brasília
- Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, Praça do Império
- Miradouro de Santa Luzia, Largo Santa Luzia
- Street art at Pátio Dom Fradique, Alfama
- Tram no. 25 or 28
- The areas of Baixa, Bairro Alto, Chiado and Alfama
- Take a day trip to Sintra
Where to eat and drink
- Mercado da Ribeira (especially Trincas), Av. 24 de Julho 50
- A Cultura do Hamburguer, R. das Salgadeiras 38
- Pastéis de Belém, R. Belém 84-92
- A Ginjinha, Praça Dom Pedro IV 71
- Ginginha do Carmo, Calcada do Carmo, 37A
- Enoteca De Belém, Tv. Marta Pinto 10
- Gelato Davvero, Praça São Paulo 1
- A Brasileira, R. Garrett 120
- Hamburgueria Gourmet, Rua da Alfândega 114
Where to stay
We stayed at the Emporium Lisbon Suites in Alfama. It turned out to be the perfect location, in the middle of the main sights and just by Terreiro do Paço metro station. Our apartment was huge and pretty cool, with polished concrete floors and a comfortable bed. Unfortunately sleep quality wasn’t the best, with noisy neighbours and a fridge that sounded like being back on the plane. We’d give it 3/5.
We also bookmarked these Airbnb apartments, which look amazing (if you’re a new Airbnb-er, sign up using this link for a whopping £25 off your first stay!):
- Chiado/Bairro Alto apartment near no.28 tram stop
- São Paulo apartment in historic building
- Chiado apartment with 360° terrace views
- Super chic Chiado apartment near no.28 tram stop
- Carrie’s guides to Lisbon: part 1 and part 2
- Laetitia’s visual diary and guide
- Marisa’s Lisbon guide
- Cate St Hill’s guide to Lisbon
- My previous Lisbon posts: part one and video diary