36 hours in Naples

Via dei Tribunali, Naples, Italy

Mini guide: 3 days in Napoli

We first breezed through Naples on our way from Rome to Capri, but after a taste of the city we were itching to get back a few days later. It has a reputation for being slightly rough around the edges but we absolutely loved its character: it felt like real Italy, not an Italian theme park (looking at you, Capri).

I’d always advise people to be sensible in any unknown city but we found the locals to be nothing but friendly and super-helpful. Example? Naples is a real warren and on our return we were struggling to find our Airbnb, so we asked a stallholder who took us round no less than four of her nearby friends until they’d found out in which direction to point us.

Naples, ItalyNaples, ItalyPiazza Dante, Naples, ItalyBook stall, Naples, ItalyInside Chiesa Gesù Nuovo, Naples, ItalyChiesa Gesù Nuovo, Naples, ItalyNaples, ItalyLucky Pulcinella statue, Naples, ItalyPet shop puppy, Naples, ItalyPasta, Naples, Italy

What to see

Naples is incredibly historic but there aren’t many ‘must sees’: it’s actually something we liked about it, there’s no pressure to rush around ticking-off a list of monuments so you can just relax and enjoy yourself. My favourite sight was probably the Chiesa Gesù Nuovo. I’m not often impressed by religious buildings but this one is stunning.

I also highly recommend a wander round the Centro Storico and particularly the Via Dei Tribunali. The Quartieri Spagnoli is also worth exploring, though our Rough Guide advised avoiding the area at night (we were there around dusk and it seemed ok). Many tourists use Naples as a base for visiting Pompei and we were no different (check it out)!

Quatiere Spagnoli, Naples, ItalyBefriending dogs in Naples, ItalyNaples, ItalyReligious mural, Naples, ItalyNaples Airbnb roof terrace

Where to stay

On our first night in Naples we stayed at the Domus Rosa, which turned out to be highly-rated for a reason and is perfectly located with friendly service. When we returned we stayed in an Airbnb apartment (use my referral link for £13 credit!) with a roof terrace from which we could see Vesuvius.

What to eat

PIZZA! The Neopolitans famously invented pizza (grazie mille, Napoli) so they really know how it’s done. We ate a lot. These were our favourite places:

Sorbillo Pizza, Via Dei Tribunali 32 – hands-down the best pizza I’ve ever eaten. Pizza is now ruined for me. We went twice, I wish we’d gone even more. I’d seriously contemplate a flight to Naples for another and I hate flying. Go.

Sorbillo takeaway, Via Dei Tribunali (a few doors down from the other Sorbillo!) – imagine a deep-fried calzone and you’ve got pizza fritta. We went here twice too. Yummy.

Casa Infante Gelateria, various locations – for almost the entire duration of our trip this place held on to the title of “best gelato” (it was topped in Matera). The coconut was especially delicious.

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Pizza fritta & beer, Naples, ItalyWine bar, Naples, ItalyGelato in Naples, ItalyThe best pizza in Naples, Italy: Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali

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